Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Thursday, April 3, 2014

Post Rain SUP



Don't fall in, your suit might disintegrate.  Doheny is known to have the dirtiest water in all of southern california.  It does smell bad most of the time, and after a rain WATCH OUT.  Last night it rained (2nd time all year), HARD, for about an hour.  By the time Richard and I met at 6 AM, it was mostly clear skies and dried streets.  Not a soul at the beach, just how we like it, and the cleanest waves in So Cal were breaking in front of us.  Still a windswell bump to it, but some 1.4@15 south swell was sending in the nice double-up little waves. 
While not every wave was good, some lined up and spit some fast walls for the 12 footers.  Only fell in once and I didn't melt, alright!  Just us until about 7:10, then we got out before the hepatitus crew showed up.  Still happy, definitely not summer yet.

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

March 14: Better than Expected Friday

Got a new suit from Richard, for free.  Zero Gold, 4/3, charcoal grey, rad old guy suit and super warm.  This was the Surf and Turf recruiting day John Seely put on, and I promised I be at the pier to help.  But knowing it would be a zoo and I wouldn't surf there, Richard and I dawn patroled Uppers.  5 guys out.  That's it.  And waves easily chest high with some connecting in the bay for a pretty long ride.  It was so fun, with clear skies, off shores, and no crowd, I didn't want to leave at 7:30 after only an hour 15 of surf. 
But, I promised so i sprinted over to the pier for the event.  It was super busy, but a pretty neat idea.  Made me very grateful for the job I have seeing all these people interested and/or somewhat desparate to get in here.  I love March and I love days like this.