Strong NW winds

This is from Saturday.  Strong NW winds have been pounding the coast all week, starting on Saturday.  The swell was small, about 1.1@14 from the south but that is enough for Doheny to break at knee high.  The tide was insanely high at 10 AM so I had to wait a while to get out there, but had to go at 12:30 since thats when the kids went down.  Doheny was probably the only place working with the wind, and it wasn't working when I first got out there.  But the tide was freefalling and within 20 minutes, some nice knee high waves were pumping through.  This other guy paddled out on a 9' Naish and was ripping, had complete control of that thing.  I should get one eventually, have to save some dough though.  All and all, a fun day but surf has been small and weather has been bad for 2 weeks.  Can't wait to get some waves with my friends.

Lowers in December

December is awesome in Orange County.  The weather is great, the mountain bike trails are wetter and in better conditions, and the crowds out surfing are cut by 3/4.  The only thing that sucks is the chronic high tides in the morning, which is the only time I can surf during the work week.  Today's buoy was 1.6@14 from the S, which is awesome for all of trestles.   But with a 6.5 ft high tide, the only place breaking is lowers.  I took a gamble and got in the water at about 6.  There were about 6-8 of us out the whole time and the waves were decent, breaking close to shore but still pretty fun, maybe waist to chest high at best.  Although even with 8 people the spot is an a frame and everyone is crammed into a small take off zone, I enjoy my SUP surfs more even if the wave isn't as good.  But I surfed the beard and caught about 10 fun waves, a couple really good ones, and got out after an hour.  Still worth it.

Doheny, new SUP secret spot?

This is from yesterday. 
Who knew that Doheny was capable of providing so much fun.  Kids went to nap again at around 11:15 AM so I split for a quick paddle surf.  Buoys were 1.2@13 so I expected nothing more than 6 inch waves.  Got there, no one was out.  Tide was super low, and a family just arrived with there soft tops.  I made my way to the south jetty to surf the 9 inch waves that I was seeing, which were still awesome on the 12'1 Laird.  Within 20 minutes, these sets started coming through, consistently.  2-3 foot waves were making there way in and only 3 of us were on it.  I must have caught 25 waves, I figured out how to turn really fast and late drop into these perfect little rights.  I only fell in twice and feel confident that i have figured this thing out.  Brought the go pro but set it up too high, oh well.  Man I am loving these mid day surfs in my short sleeve full suit in December.  As a kid I had to drive 45-60 minutes just to surf freezing cold crappy waves in Pacifica, now I can SUP surf the perfect spot that is 10 minutes from home while my kids are napping.  Life is soo good.

Doheny SUP day

After yesterday's 31 mile epic ride up to Santiago peak and down Joplin, i was wiped out.  I couldn't imagine peddling one stroke so surfing Trestles was out of the question.  The kids went down for a nap at 11:40 and there was just enough swell for Doheny to be 1-2 ft, plus low tide and the jetty blocking the NW wind, today was ideal.  There were about 4 people out when I got there and I immediately caught a long, lined up 2 footer.  I swear the 12'1 can surf a 1 inch wave.  After 30 minutes, there was only me and a couple 13 year old kids.  I figured it out a little better; the first time I tried this I fell on every single wave.  Today, I only fell about 4 times and caught over 20 waves.  Clearish hazy skies and still relatively warm water, I was able to wear the short sleeve full.  I'm really loving this.

2 guys at Uppers

Thank you Surfline for posting a 1-2 ft. and poor forecast.  Given that yesterday was still 3-4, and the buoys still had 2.8@10, there was a good chance that some fun little 3 footers would make there way through.  Bad weather gone, light clouds lined the horizon for an epic red sunrise.  Weather was 60, water was about 63, and waves were inconsistent 3 footers with the occasional almost head high set.  And just Richard and myself for at least an hour before a couple more guys came out.  Surfed the beard and did just fine, and some waves even lined up and gave us pretty long rides.  Rad morning, pics don't do it justice, no sets really came through.

Church, Hawk Drop, Doheny Trifecta

I'm so tired.  Billy was up at 3 screaming, i think his top teeth are popping out and its hurts pretty bad. Finally gave him some tylenol at 4:00 and he went back down. Then i got up at 5:15 to hit Church.  The waves were better, the crowd was smaller, but I didn't have as much fun.  I didn't recognize anyone and the weather was cloudy and less inviting.  But, I was still stoked and did a ton of cheater 5's on the funboard.  Got home and played with the kids until 10:30, then they went to Temecula for cousin Jordan's 10th birthday party.  Lina gave me a pass so I went riding with Ryan and Colin, and we hit Hawk Drop and Car Wreck.  Dirt was money today, just enough rain to make it super tacky but not too muddy. Got home and slept for 20 minutes then packed up the paddleboard and hit doheny.  I don't need much size to surf that tank out there, waves were 1-2 but the 12'1 flies on a 1 ft wave.  I did a lot better today, although I still sucked, but was able to stand up paddle into every wave i caught.  Of all the things i did today, I keep thinking of SUP surfing the most.  This should be an easy getaway for when I have an hour free during nap time.  I'm loving it.

3 guys at Church

So stoked to wake up this morning and see the trees were still, no south wind.  Buoys called 4.6@14 from 270, ideal west swell for Church and Uppers.  Parked up top and cars were already lining the street, but at least the clouds were breaking open already and it was looking to be a beautiful morning.  Pulled out the 5'9 neckbeard since the buoys were pumping, left the funboard behind (oops), and decided to hit Church.  Got there at 6 and only Brandon and Jim were out, way out.  Waves looked really soft, like the swell wasn't hitting right.  Perfect funboard conditions, dah! Made the best of it, sat inside for a while and had to struggle through the flat sections but caught some pretty fun waves today.  The car park at San O was closed because of the mud, so it was just the 3 of us for about an hour.  Even after that it was really quiet, maybe 5 or 6 of us.  While the surfing was challenging the company and conditions were pretty awesome, Jim even gave me some coffee after our session.  He lives in LN too, and sets up camp at Church complete with a firepit and coffee mug.  Brilliant.  Got home really happy and the kids were stoked too.  Great way to start the weekend.