Doheny Go Pro Day

I'm always so psyched to bring my go pro out so I can capture some good memories, but at the end of a ride or surf I usually end up dissapointed with the footage and distracted trying to use it. Today was no exception. I put the Go Pro towards the end of my paddle so I could hold it behind me and get some new perspectives. I caught about 15 waves and all of the vids were crap except for 1, but that one is golden and I can use it for future family movies. There was a decent NW swell today and I got a pic from Richard that ROTP at Creek was pumping, but its Creek and I avoid that place like the plague. I hit Doheny at 12:45, and the tide was dropping down to the 3.0 ft range so waves in front of the jetty were just starting to work. Today I caught the biggest wave I've had on the 12'1 Laird, and recorded it but had it facing down to far to show how awesome the wave was. It was probably 3 ft, but long and fast. There was one dude out on a big hobie boat looking thing that just paddle around the other 2 people out and even paddled his board right into me on one. So wierd, everyone else is usually chill out there. Oh well, overall it was a killer session and I love the 2 hour break in the day so close to home. Kind of want a smaller board now.  Might have to sell my Carbon Nomad frame and swap it for an aluminum Reign X so I can get a couple bucks saved up.



Late day SUP surf

Doheny is awesome in the off season.  I still haven't been in the summer and would prefer not to, I've seen pictures  and it looks like a busy day at disneyland.  More or less my worst nightmare.  Some of today's NW swell was still hitting and wrapping around the harbor, showing some 1-2 ft faces on the -.7 low tide.  The tide was so low I had to run the board down the beach, which is a huge pain in the ass.  Totally worth it, was in the water by about 4:15 and the NW wind was laying down and the waves were glassy.  I caught 2 of the best waves I've ever had on the 12'1 SUP, and I got that tank going about 90 mph down a steep 2 ft screamer.  I know 2 ft sounds wimpy but on a 12 foot long, 30 inch wide board it feels like a good size wave.  I fell a bunch today but mostly because the waves had a close out section on the end that pushed the board out from under my feet.  Anyway, this should be a good habit.  4:00 sesh with very few people out, so fun.

Middles

Who knew that middles threw out such long waves.  If you get a good one its like Rincon, and you can ride it for 200 yards.  But there isn't a great inside section, at least on the fat high tide today, so you are forced to wait for the big sets.  It was 45 degrees today and the water was maybe 58, pretty comfortable really.  Richard and I surfed near the top of the point, not far from lowers, with only a couple other guys around.  Some solid sets made it through and we had a good old time, even with all the waiting.  I remember when I moved here from SLO i was so pissed about the traffic and the crowds.  The problem was I moved to Newport, that place sucks.  Down south is so much less populated and the waves are 10x better, you just have to work a little to get them.  There are just 3 months out of the year that suck crowd wise, but even those aren't so bad now that I found Church.  So another spot to surf which is epic on its day, right next to all my other favorite spots.  Stoked!

Awesome day at Rockpiles

Awesome morning with the fam at Heisler Park.  It was cold and a littly breezy for 10 AM, but clear and nice and its critical to get out of the house with the kids to break up the day.  Otherwise 20 minutes feels like 4 hours and you fall asleep with your eyes open.  Rockpiles was breaking OK, so I snapped a pic of a guy out for a solo sesh.  Somedays are better to not surf and just enjoy time with the fam, and show the kids some new places.

Freezing cold waist high lines

Today was cold.  The air was probably 45 degrees at best, but the offshores were howling.  Wore my hood and gloves again, but Richard forgot his hood so his head had to be freezing.  Surfed the funboard since it looked pretty small, 1.3@14 W swell is generally going to be small.  But it was just the two of us for a while, and I was catching some rad waves into the bay.  I got one chest high wave that raced for a solid 60-70 yards, superfast and long and I got a high speed cheater five in.  The air was way colder than the water, and it was still super cold even when the sun came out.  Richard said he was bored but i was stoked, i caught plenty of fun ones that made it worth it and the cold is kind of a neat experience anyway, plus the clear skies always provide an awesome sunrise.  Now, 11 days off for Christmas Break, so stoked!

What were we thinking?

Richard sent a text at 5:15, O side buoys looked weak.  Billy-boy was up at 3 crying with a wet diaper that leaked so i didn't sleep well.  Didn't bother to check the Dana Point buoy and just went back to sleep since Richard wasn't into it; it was supposed to be 35 degrees again anyway.  Finally checked the DP buoy at 7 and it read 3.1@13 from 280, which means chest high waves at uppers and church.  I almost blew a fuse, I wanted to surf so bad and I blew it and it was probably empty.  F it, I decided to go to work late and go to Uppers.  I left the house at about 7:45 and parked up top close to 8.  Street parking was empty, 10-15 cars.  Sprinted my way down to uppers with my beard and lost fish, and saw chest high lines with 3 guys out.  WTF!  Beard it is!  As soon as I paddled out the bay started grinding out some long lines, and I was all by myself.  Consistent sets for 30-40 minutes, I didn't even sit on my board and my throat was getting cold from huffing and puffing (it was still about 45 degrees in the sun).  Finally the sets slowed down and about 17 people paddled out.  Caught several more fun small ones in the bay and stayed out until 9:40.  Stoked I made it out but would have rather had a 4 man surf sesh with Richard, John, and that Saffa guy thats always out there.  All good though, hopefully tomorrow will be funboard friday!  We're going Richard!

Coldest morning surf ever

Wake up text from Richard at 5:39 AM was the pic of his car's thermometer.  I was ready though, i put on my suit at my house, put on some gloves and my hood, and made it to Salt Creek in 8 minutes.  Met Richard and Matt in the water, swell was JUMBLED.  5.6@7 seconds, yet still 75% of the waves closed out.  I hate Creek, that place is never good and always crowded.  The water was easily 60, and felt warm compared to the 35 degree off shore winds.  My head was cold through the hood.  Waves were really mixed up, but I did catch a pretty fun one that went for about 30 yards.  It was doubled up really close to the wave in front of it, but ended up holding a fast, open shoulder.  Otherwise, all the other waves i caught were crap, yet somehow I was still really happy.  Just good to surf be in the water with my buddies again.  Maybe tomorrow will clean up enough for Uppers.  Will be super cold again.