Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Monday, October 17, 2011

4. Keep Surfing

S0 my scaphoid is still broken, even after 10 weeks. It is the stupid bone in your wrist that never heals because it doesn't get any blood. But with a cast on, I can keep doing almost anything without issue. I haven't surfed this much since I lived in Newport in 2005 when I could see the waves from my house; these days I'm catching better waves and doing it with some good friends. I had my cast removed for a couple days in preparation to get a screw put in my wrist. After I heard my doctor was going on vacation for 2 weeks, I had a cast (my 4th one) put back on so I can keep surfing and keep riding. There is a guy named John that is out at uppers every morning at the crack of dawn; he blogs about his sessions and includes pics of each day. This was one of the best days this fall, September 14th, a cool sunny morning with a light crowd and perfect chest to head high waves. Found out today John has prostate cancer but is having surgery tomorrow (Oct 18) and is supposed to have a complete recovery in about 6 weeks. Good luck John, hope to see you at Uppers soon.
Check out the array of cast colors I have gone through:





Wednesday, October 5, 2011

20. Get a cool new haircut

I went to a barbershop called Hawleywoods in Costa Mesa and got a rockabilly pompadour cut. Kind of a classic 50's greaser cut like Elvis used to wear. The barbers name was Eli and he was really meticulous, took an hour to cut my hair and they gave me a Pabst. The finishing touch was a straight edge razor he used to clean up aroundthe ears and neck. Really nice work.

Monday, October 3, 2011

2. Take Coco in Ocean

There is something about the ocean that does it for me. I'll find myself being the only adult bodyboarding with a bunch of pre-adolescent children and it doesn't bother me. I love the smell and the taste of the water, and getting that salt burn on my tongue. I love ducking under waves and riding the ones that slam me into the sand. I love it when salt water comes out of my nose 5 hours after I got out of the water.
I don't know if Coco will feel the same as me, but the least I can do is introduce it to her; so before she even turned 1 Lina and I gave her the chance to get wet and I think she liked it. Looking forward to spending a lot more time with her in the water.