I heart winter

This is considered the worst fall/winter ever (at least the last 11 years here in SoCal).  While I won't disagree completely, my trusty surf companion Richard and I have made the best of it.  The months of November and December were mostly tiny, miniature south swells barely hitting 1 ft. at 13 on the buoys, but just enough to create perfect knee high waves at Doheny's northern break.  We've had countless solo or near solo sessions with rad sunrises and perfect SUP waves.  Honestly, the solitude has more than made up for the weak waves, and we catch 20-30 waves per session = never boring.
Intermittently, we had a couple all time sessions at Lowers where the off season south swell jumped up to 1.5 at 16.  One day with about 15 guys and 10 waves sets, chest to head high and realling.  Like a great summer day with literally 1/10th the crowd.  Clear skies, cold air, and just a few happy locals trading sets.  December 13, 2013, one of the best days I can remember.

Then we had a couple desparate sessions, while almost solo the waves were so small we could barely longboard.  We still made the effort, clear skies and insanely perfect conditions were too welcoming to pass up.  What else are we going to do in the morning, go for a run?

At the end of the day, I know for sure I am happy as a clam living here in winter.  Even in the worst winter swell wise I'm still 100x happier than summer with foggy mornings and 50 aggro guys on it at every spot.  Then, when an epic west swell hits, like it did last week, I can't think of a better place to be.  Will share in the next post.

100 Yard Grinders at the Hammer

If memory serves me right, January offers the most epic sessions of the year.  Cleanest conditions, longest rides, smallest crowds.  As good as it gets, and the cold mornings and stiff off shores just make it more memorable.
Today is a holiday for all the groms, and when Surfline calls anything above 3 ft the herds follow.  Knowing this whole week should be filled with solid west swell, we chose to SUP this morning and avoid the crowds.  The swell was weird, 2.1@14 from 195 yesterday and 2.6@13 from 226 today, more west.  With tide right at 2.0 Richard and I made our way to the hammer to find some insane chest high sets.  Richard caught one that must have been 100 yards, screaming the whole way.  The sunrise was epic, and the holiday surf seekers stayed to the north while we had our own peak until 7:15.  By then we were both already 10-15 waves deep and stoked.  Awesome start to what looks like a great week.  I love winter!!!!!!!!!!
And Happy Anniversary: 6 Years!