Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Wednesday, February 27, 2013

SUP Tuesday

Haven't surfed this February.  Couple crappy days early in the month, then I got sick for about 3 weeks.  Mild flu symptoms followed by congestion and coughing.  No waves and freezing mornings, I took the month off.  Finally feeling better and wanting to get some water time before my trip to Italy for work.  Woke up tuesday morning planning to flat water paddle at Doheny, so I brought the 12'1 Laird.  Tide was about 2.5 ft and rising when I got there at 6, and there were tiny 1 ft waves breaking at the boneyard.  I thought there was no way they were surfable, but they were.  Had a sick solo sesh, wore my windbreaker over my 4/3, gloves, booties, and a beanie.  Air was 45 and winds were pretty harsh offshore, so wearing all that stuff was a good idea.  Stoked to be back!
 

Friday, February 1, 2013

This Weak in Surf

After an all time consistent, uncroweded, flawless week of waves we got a week of sub par surf.  Too bad because the tide was perfect, but the swells werent hitting right.  Day 1 was a shit day at Creek, head high dumpy peaks with 20 guys swirling around getting close out barrels or 2 second rides.  The beard performed terribly in the dumpy stuff, and I surfed for barely 20 minutes.  At least it was close to home.
Thursday was pretty fun, Richard and I took the logs out to Lowers with nobody around.  It was similar to a couple Fridays ago, but a little bigger and more consistent.  We were in heaven until 8 more people paddled out.  Still got some good ones, and I surfed the funboard really well.  Then today was wimpy, a couple sets came through about waist high with some potential, but they were very few and far between.  We started at Uppers with John and thought Lowers looked great from a distance.  We ran down the beach to lowers to find it wasn't so great, and 3 more guys paddled out so we left early.  And my bike chain fell off on the ride down too, just wasn't meant to be today.