EPIC SUP: Some days are better than others

Holy crap.  Still buzzin' off the awesome SUP surf session we had today.  Ironically, Richard paddled out yesterday into smaller conditions with a whole high school team on their way out.  It was so crowded he couldn't surf. 
Today was bigger, the tide was better, and we had 3-4 of us out there most of the time we were out.  1.6@14 with a 4 ft and rising high tide made the boneyard at Doheny a great option, and Thursday is a day off for the local surf teams.  I caught so many waves today i can't even count, didn't even have a chance to just chill and talk with Richard until we got out of the water after 7:30.  Most waves were knee high, perfect for SUPping but a few big waves came through and I tippie toe dropped in to a couple and made them.  Such a great day, I feel way more outgoing and am starting up conversations with people I usually don't bother with.  Crazy.  Here are some great pics:

Thank God it's Fall: Back at it

Now that the fog and crowds from summer are on the way out, we are back to the best and most memorable time of year for surf.  While we have already had a few nice fall days, today is a good one to kick off the season.  Two swells in the water, 1.8@15 dropping and 1@20 rising.  Clear skies, off shore winds, medium size crowd with spread out waves.  Richard and I were on it, in the water by about 6:10 while still dark but light enough to see down the line.  It was 55 when we got there, so I wore my hood and booties.  Didn't need them, the water is 66 so I was pretty hot.
We were both on our baked potatoes, great call for today.  The swell mix offered varying waves, from nice small inside racers (dropping swell) to head high outside sets with long sections that were clearly the 20 second period. We had a ton of fun on the BPs, even though my surfing has sucked the past month.  My timing is off and I'm racing way ahead of the pocket lately, have to remember to slow down and be patient.  I'll be concious of it next time.  Anyway, mostly the regulars out like Jon, Dave, Nick, Henning, Helmet guy, and a few randoms that weren't getting in the way too bad.  Stoked its fall.  Kids are growing up too