Thank God it's Fall: Back at it

Now that the fog and crowds from summer are on the way out, we are back to the best and most memorable time of year for surf.  While we have already had a few nice fall days, today is a good one to kick off the season.  Two swells in the water, 1.8@15 dropping and 1@20 rising.  Clear skies, off shore winds, medium size crowd with spread out waves.  Richard and I were on it, in the water by about 6:10 while still dark but light enough to see down the line.  It was 55 when we got there, so I wore my hood and booties.  Didn't need them, the water is 66 so I was pretty hot.
We were both on our baked potatoes, great call for today.  The swell mix offered varying waves, from nice small inside racers (dropping swell) to head high outside sets with long sections that were clearly the 20 second period. We had a ton of fun on the BPs, even though my surfing has sucked the past month.  My timing is off and I'm racing way ahead of the pocket lately, have to remember to slow down and be patient.  I'll be concious of it next time.  Anyway, mostly the regulars out like Jon, Dave, Nick, Henning, Helmet guy, and a few randoms that weren't getting in the way too bad.  Stoked its fall.  Kids are growing up too