If memory serves me right, January offers the most epic sessions of the year. Cleanest conditions, longest rides, smallest crowds. As good as it gets, and the cold mornings and stiff off shores just make it more memorable.
Today is a holiday for all the groms, and when Surfline calls anything above 3 ft the herds follow. Knowing this whole week should be filled with solid west swell, we chose to SUP this morning and avoid the crowds. The swell was weird, 2.1@14 from 195 yesterday and 2.6@13 from 226 today, more west. With tide right at 2.0 Richard and I made our way to the hammer to find some insane chest high sets. Richard caught one that must have been 100 yards, screaming the whole way. The sunrise was epic, and the holiday surf seekers stayed to the north while we had our own peak until 7:15. By then we were both already 10-15 waves deep and stoked. Awesome start to what looks like a great week. I love winter!!!!!!!!!!And Happy Anniversary: 6 Years!
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