Its been really hard to surf before work when the tide is high and the waves are tiny. Why can't every day be like November 29th, 2011. Tuesday dawn patrol at 5:30 AM, low tide, me and Richard were the first two on it and old man John met up with us soon after, recovering well from his prostate surgery. Thanks for the pics John, as always! Pink sunrise and PERFECT chest to head high, lined up walls with a very light crowd. This was one of those days I thanked God that I surf.
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