Thursday Jan 5th I finally surfed at Salt Creek for the first time in a year, great timing since I move to Laguna Niguel and it is only 7 minutes from my house. I met up with Matt, tide was high which is good for gravels but the set waves were walled. I almost didn't go out but the in between smaller waves would open up. And gravels freaking heaves barrels, it can be kind of scary first thing in the morning when its still dark. But my last wave was perfect, chest high, I was sitting next to Matt and he was psyched for me. Took off, stalled, and got a 3 second cover up, i love that sound you hear in a barrel, its like a deep, muffled wind sound. Hoooooooooooooooooooooooooooo. Man that was fun, and got a quick drive home to take a shower before work. So stoked to live here!
Friday, January 6, 2012
18. Get barreled at Gravels before work
Thursday Jan 5th I finally surfed at Salt Creek for the first time in a year, great timing since I move to Laguna Niguel and it is only 7 minutes from my house. I met up with Matt, tide was high which is good for gravels but the set waves were walled. I almost didn't go out but the in between smaller waves would open up. And gravels freaking heaves barrels, it can be kind of scary first thing in the morning when its still dark. But my last wave was perfect, chest high, I was sitting next to Matt and he was psyched for me. Took off, stalled, and got a 3 second cover up, i love that sound you hear in a barrel, its like a deep, muffled wind sound. Hoooooooooooooooooooooooooooo. Man that was fun, and got a quick drive home to take a shower before work. So stoked to live here!
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