South Swells and Black Eyes

Back in the groove, after an awesome week of fog filled paddle surfing, spring is now in full swing with south swells, south winds, long rides, long lulls, unpredictable crowds, and slightly warmer conditions.  After waiting through Monday's south wind sloppfest, Richard and I were first out at uppers on Tuesday.  Nice long lines and steep faces that were pretty ripable, but the crowd got thick with some summer time faces and with the long lulls it felt like a cold summer day.  Still fun.

Wednesday was awesome, hit uppers myself at 6:30, first one out with clear skies and perfect waist to chest high lines driving through.  Only 6 or 8 of us out with plenty of waves, and I caught several fun ripable ones just up from the bay. 

Caught a rail to the face after a floater gone wrong and am sporting a cool fight club black eye.  Didn't want to get out with only 5 guys in the water and great conditions, but the thing started swelling and impeding my vision.  Here is my eye, a day and a half later.  Today I was exhausted, and not that psyched to go but Richard was amping and a new swell was showing, so I went.  The waves were a little mixed up, so I was kind of wishing i stayed in bed.  But then I caught a few fun ones, and the crowd never got out of hand.  Todays cam even caught one of my better waves on it and although i wasn't surfing my best i still got a couple good turns in.