Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Friday, March 29, 2013

Another great week of Spring surf

This time of year is awesome, somewhat similar to fall as we get combo swells from north and south, we also maintain lighter crowds similar to winter.  Conditions can vary though, as we start getting a lot of fog, and eddy conditions, strong south winds can mess everything up.  But this week had the fog without the wind, and the swell was on from the south.  This thing hit last Friday and even today I caught a few south swell lines on the paddleboard, one week later.  Lets review:
Monday was macking, head high to over head sets at uppers.  Descent size crowd but manageable, Lowers looked like a zoo with 150 monkeys all fighting each other while Uppers had 20-25 guys and was spread out. 
Caught some great waves, a couple bigger sets that the beard had trouble on, and couple chest high insiders that the beard loved.  Richard was on his shred sled lighting it up and burying the rail, getting ready for his epic trip to Kandui. 
Tuesday was BETTER, smaller crowd with cleaner waves and less sections. I felt like i was ripping off the tops and sharp carves, GREAT DAY. The inside peaks were working a little better and it feels like this will be an awesome spring. 

By Wednesday I was good, but Richard and Matt talked me into another day in a row.  While the waves were fun on Wednesday, it wasn't like Tuesday (classic uppers) and I kind of wished i was with the kids and Lina.  I'm not balancing as well as I should.  But it was still a fun day with a light crowd and beats any day in the middle of summer with 30 guys.  Plus when its good its hard not to go.

Finally on Friday I hit up Doheny for a 2 foot paddle sesh.  Was solo most of the time and scored anywhere from 1 footers to over waist high set waves.  SOLO!  And I'm getting some nice control of the 12'1.  This was a good week to remember for surf, and to remember in the heat of summer when there are 50 people out before dark that the rest of the year can be all time with just your friends. Still have a black eye, 10 days after getting hit in the face!


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