Another prestine morning at middles. Richard and I were the first two out today but by 6:30 it got kind of busy. Good thing everyone paddle up to the point near lowers so the middle and south section of middles were almost empty. Caught a ton of waves on the funboard today, chest high for the most part and racey, but most waves were sectioning off at the end rather than continuously connecting to the sand. Until my last wave, an insider on the south section. Chest high, got a couple turns in, then a stall and a couple smooth steps up to the nose. Both feet on the edge, right hand dragging on the lip, just cruising through this nice fast little section. Then stepped back and rode all the way to the sand. Easily over 100 yards. Man this wave can be so fun, another great day. Forgot the cam. but it looked just like yesterday.
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