Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Middles Funboard day

Stoked on Middles, the spot has the longest waves and the crowd gets pretty spread out.  Richard and I got there at 6:00 and the temp said 42, but the offshore winds were at least 10 mph so it felt like 32, especially when your wet.  So I wore the new billabong 4/3, booties, hood, and gloves and was stoked.  Can't barely feel the cold.  Another awesome morning with the sky still a little dark and just enough light to see perfect waist to chest high lines making there way through.  I surfed the funboard, which was ideal for the day, and caught a couple insanely long waves, at least 100 yards.  You can tell when they will line up and have a fast face, some of them are too slow and weak even for the funboard, so you have to be selective.  The tide absolutely killed it by 8, and it was tough to get a wave in.  Really fun though, I'm really liking this spot.  Check out Coco's awesome funny faces she learned from Yo Gabba Gabba, and Billy is almost starting to walk now.  They're playing together in the play room right now with all their new Xmas toys, and don't need us to be with them all the time.  Happy about that.





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