EPIC week of surf

One of the hardest things about being surfer is adjusting to variable conditions, its challenging to develop a routine because it isn't always good at 6 AM on Thursday, its also part of the reason its so addicting.  When you get it good with a light crowd and you can still complete life's responsibilities (work/family) it feels like you won the lottery.  The past week has been the million dollar jackpot.
Sunday: top 10 all time best day I've ever had.  1 ft @22 means POWERFUL waves without being too big.  Middles, light offshores, warmer weather (55 degrees) and after surfing for 2 hours I still counted only 5 of us out, including my permanantly amped surf pals Richard and Matt.  Where was everybody, where are the crowds from summer that make me want to quit and sell all my surf stuff?  150 yard long, ultra powerful and fast head high rights, flawless.  Surfed my old Lost Fish and I realized how much I miss it. 

 Monday, more of the same.  A little less consistent and not as powerful, but still an A day.  150 yard head high rights with a 10-12 person crowd, and it was a holiday for a lot of people.  Surfed the beard and got some turns in I could never do on the fish. 

Also picked up a CI 9'1 caddy paddle board for those epic doheny days.  Surfed it at Church in the evening and it is so much better than the monster 12'1 i have.  Lina bought it for my birthday and I forsee us having some good times out on the water together now we have two boards. 

Wednesday, forecasted to be smaller.  Richard and I surfed BY OURSELVES at middles with chest to head high rights.  Inconsistent, but an A+ day considering we were surfing an epic right point break in southern california all by ourselves on a head high day.  That doesn't ever happen.

And still got some good work done and spent quality time with the kids and wife.  Its been a benchmark week!