Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Unreal Middles

We got down to Middles at about 6 and it was just getting light.  Looked really small, about 2 ft but the waves looked really long because of the 15 second period.  We thought church would be better but it wasn't, so we went back to middles.  There were already a few guys at the top of the point so we stayed in the middle of middles.  Waves were fun but the wind was a really bad side off shore for the first 45 minutes so it was hard to surf.  BUT, by about 7 the wind chilled out the waves started really lining up, nice chest to head high sets, and I caught some great long waves until 7:30.  We got out and it looked so clean and good, and the crowd dwindled down to just a few people scattered around.  We figured this doesn't happen very often, it was a little inconsistent but really clean and long waves.  So we went back out until 8:30 and it was great.  The crowd filled in pretty good around 8-8:15, but I scored 2 of my longest waves towards the end. My last wave was the best, the inside guy got sectioned and I took of and got easily a 150 yard ride, 5 turns and a nose ride.  So fun.  I forgot i also got a rad one where i ran to the nose on take off and flew through a 50 yard section, man what a great day to be a surfer.  Finally got to work at 9:40 but no one was here, should have stayed out longer!







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