Frickin' Lowers

I got a stinging reminder of why I don't surf lowers. Today was like a stiff kick in the nuts, while the waves were tremendous again, the crowd was thicker and it was a little less consistent.  Richard, Matt, and I all paddled out in the dark at 5:50.  I sat inside and caught about 5 rights in a row, all excellent and I was amping.  About 40 minutes in I felt claustrophobic and you look around and can't believe there are enough waves for what feels like 1000 people.  Plus you feel like you are going to be decapitated on every set wave since there are 25 people paddling for them.  And some waves you feel like you rip and other waves you can't get your feet set.  Argh, so frustrating.  I'm going back to Church.