Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Sunday, October 14, 2012

Today was the day

Air 80, water 66, winds light nw, and swell was a 2-3 ft north/south combo.  Lina let me escape at about 2:30 today and i raced down to trestles.  Everything was going right for me, no traffic, light winds, low tide, and a swell that was bigger than forecasted.  I took the funboard to church expecting it to be 2 ft but when I got down there I saw a couple head high sets work through the light crowd of maybe 5 guys.  Today was the day that i dream about taking my kids out on, where the whole fam comes down to Church for the day and I teach them how to surf.  Waves weren't all time, but they were plenty good and fun and not having to scrap with anyone made it better.  I can't wait for more days like this with Coco and Billy.





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