Happily back to Church

Got a late start today, didn't get down to Church until about 6:15.  Buoys said 2.1@14 which usually means funboard but I thought I'd give the beard a shot out there.  Tide was low and this swell has been pumping.  I got there and only 2 people were out, its such a good feeling to know you don't have to scrap with a ton of aggressive guys.  As I was paddling out these good size waves were grinding through the inside and I kept takeing them, chest high with great shape and pretty ripable.  The beard was perfect and I caught about 5 in a row.  Then the sets stopped coming, and about 10 people paddled out.  Some smaller inside waves came through but the beard couldn't handle the softness, I kept wishing I had the funboard.  I need to figure out a way to bring 2 boards down there.  Got out about 7:10 after catching a really fun chest high wave that had pretty decent pop and I smacked the lip a couple times.  Love that.  All and all a fun day, I just wish Surfline would forecast 2-3 and fair conditions to keep the crowd down.