Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Monday, October 1, 2012

Lowers in the dark

Swell was pumping this morning so Richard and I wanted to get a head start on the crowd.  Even though it doesn't get light until 6 at best, the moon was full and skies were clear so we met up top at 5.  After noticing the crowd at Uppers has been thicker than lowers, we decided to try lowers.  Paddled out at about 5:20 with 8-10 guys already out, and it was really, really dark.  The moon was lighting up the left OK but the right's were pitch black.  So hard to surf.  But the second it started getting light out Richard and I were catching these inside waves, one after the other.  Then the swell really picked up and sets were bombing through, enough waves for the crowd of 50 to all get something.  I caught one of the best waves I caught all year, head high screamer where I raced the first section then carved up the open face on the inside.  Lowers is so crowded we almost never go and can forget how good it is, but when you get it consistent with a reasonable crowd there is no better wave around.  Today was ALL TIME, it really did look like the second pic...  And the first pic too, haha.

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