Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Sunday, December 30, 2012

Doheny Go Pro Day

I'm always so psyched to bring my go pro out so I can capture some good memories, but at the end of a ride or surf I usually end up dissapointed with the footage and distracted trying to use it. Today was no exception. I put the Go Pro towards the end of my paddle so I could hold it behind me and get some new perspectives. I caught about 15 waves and all of the vids were crap except for 1, but that one is golden and I can use it for future family movies. There was a decent NW swell today and I got a pic from Richard that ROTP at Creek was pumping, but its Creek and I avoid that place like the plague. I hit Doheny at 12:45, and the tide was dropping down to the 3.0 ft range so waves in front of the jetty were just starting to work. Today I caught the biggest wave I've had on the 12'1 Laird, and recorded it but had it facing down to far to show how awesome the wave was. It was probably 3 ft, but long and fast. There was one dude out on a big hobie boat looking thing that just paddle around the other 2 people out and even paddled his board right into me on one. So wierd, everyone else is usually chill out there. Oh well, overall it was a killer session and I love the 2 hour break in the day so close to home. Kind of want a smaller board now.  Might have to sell my Carbon Nomad frame and swap it for an aluminum Reign X so I can get a couple bucks saved up.





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