Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Friday, September 28, 2012

Super fun but did I choose the right spot?

Rolled solo today since Matt was surfing lowers and Richard stayed home for his wife's birthday.  Got to Trestles parking at 5:45 and it was really busy already so I decided to hit church.  Buoys said 2.2@17 which is solid, but I thought with the high tide it would be best to surf the fun board. I got down there and it was really pumping, head high to overhead sets, with most waves opening up with long shoulders mixed with the occasional close out.  I immediately regretted my board choice but made the best of it.  There were 4 of us when I first paddled out and I caught a bomb on my first wave, overhead screamer and the board rode just fine.  The tide immediately started to get fat and I sat a little inside and caught everything, I must have surfed 3X more waves than the next guy, and most of them were long and I got 2-5 turns on each wave depending.  Only about 8 of us until 7 when the parade showed up, but I was having a lot of fun so I stayed out until 7:30 (should have gone in early).  Check the set that plowed through unridden, A Frame.  Went straigh to work so no pics of the kiddies.



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