Finally we got some swell, was supposed to be a combo but felt really West. Was inconsistent but sets were head high and pretty solid. Richard and I were the first two on the north point at Church, waves were slow but a few solid sets came through. I started the session on my neckbeard which was awesome on a couple of the bigger waves I caught. But I noticed a lot more inside sets rolling through so I switched to the fun board. Caugth twice as many waves and was loving it, but wish i had some sunglasses. You have to surf using brail once the sun pops up. I got a new suit from Richard today and it was too small and too stiff, really uncomfortable and just moving was very labor intensive. Just found out Richard can exchange it, yee haw! Anyway, today was pretty fun and warmer than expected.
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