Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Friday, November 23, 2012

Where was everybody?

Surfline forecasted 4-6 with Good conditions.  Combo swell was peaking 2.5@15 from the south and 2.6@13 from the west.  I figured there would be good waves, even with the high tide, and Lina wanted to go shop at 9 so dawn patrol was the call instead of riding san juan.  I expected the crowd to be as big as yesterday, so I brought both boards and went to church.  Super thick fog this morning, it was hard to see on the drive there and the ride down.  Started on the fun board since the waves looked to be breaking close to shore.   Brandon, Jim, and another guy paddled out at the same time as me.  I caught the first wave, chest high and thumping.  I rode it to the sand and switched boards immediately.  The waves were pumping on the sets, overhead and powerful, but a little challenging to turn on.  I caught a couple mid sizers with steep faces and shredded the crap out of them, but others I struggled to drop my shoulder and hold the rail.  I made friends with Jim, he's out there all the time.  Him and Brandon call me "see Will go" because I'm always catching waves, i like that nickname.  It was EMPTY, 1/4 the crowd with way better waves.  Surfed the beard for about an hour 45 minutes then switched up to the funboard for a couple.  Caught an EPIC insider that let me stall and cheater five at high speed for about 20-30 yards.  So fun, Richard scored Stands and Matt scored Oceanside, great day to be a surfer!






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