Thanksgiving

Had to get out today because I knew the rest of the day was filled with driving, eating, and family time.  Richard and I met up top at 5:30 and based on the crowd decided to hit church.  We got there right at light and Brandon was out there, otherwise it was empty.  Waves were OK, some sets were lining up but the combo swell really hadn't filled in yet.  Started the session on the beard but as the crowd filled in I switched to the funboard.  Caught a lot of 2 ft waves that I could never surf on the beard but were down right epic for the funboard.  I could stall, cheater five, run back to the tail and get a floater at the end.  We stayed out until 7:30 and had enough, the crowd was getting thick since the whole country had the day off.  Over all it was fun and very worth it.  Another clear, sunny, glassy beautiful morning.