Sometimes you have to keep some perspective, there are over 4 million people that live in Orange County, and another several million that live in San Diego and LA. While riding down to Uppers this morning, Richard and I were a little discouraged that there were already 15 people on the beach at dark suiting up to surf, plus the additional 15-20 you know will show up by 7. But, remembering how many people live here, we are lucky that it's only this crowded first thing in the morning.
This being said, yesterday was flawless and empty. Today was smaller, forecasted to be the smallest day of the week, and twice as crowded; BUT still fun and we got our fair share of waves.
.9@20 was sending in a few long walls and we were catching some of those in the bay on the inside. I paddled out in the dark frustrated about the crowd and rode my last wave in with a huge grin; ended up being an all around great session and my old trusty fish was still doing its thing. So stoked.
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