Classic Fall Morning

While its not quite fall yet, the mornings have had crisp off shore winds, glassy conditions, clear skies, and solid waves.  Today was no exception, Richard and I met up top again at about 5:30 AM and based on the crowd we decided to hit church.  Buoys read 1.7@15 so I decided the bring the 7'2 egg funboard.  We got down to Church to see some great lined up rights, about waist to chest with the occasional head high set sneaking through.  Light crowd again until about 7, maybe 6 or 8 of us all spread out around the northern point.  Wish I had the fish on some waves and was stoked to have the egg on others, that's the tough thing about this wave.  The sets are rippable for the fish and the small insiders are soft and long for the egg.  Need an in betweener, but I must have caught at least 25 waves in barely over an hour.
Richard was ripping on his fishcuit and caught a 30 second wave he timed with his Go Pro.  Awesome!  I'm so tired from dawn patroling 6 of the past 8 days, time to relax for a few and wake up with the babies!