Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Thursday, September 6, 2012

From the Best to the Worst

Not as many cars up top today, so Matt took a chance on Lowers and Richard and I took a chance on Uppers.  Our first glimpse of the waves was exciting, chest high, glassy, and lined up: very fall like condidtions.  Still no one out yet at about 5:45, STOKED!  The first 30 minutes out there were all time, perfect steep lines and really rippable, even for a kook like me.  Hellen Keller could have smacked the lip today.  Richard was shredding the beard and we were having the time of our lives.  Within a 20 minute span the crowd went from 3 to 30 and only the northern most peak was working and everyone was jammed in one spot.  It felt like a Lowers crowd but there was only a right breaking.  Richard didn't catch a wave for 20 minutes and I was getting away with some inside scraps until a few others caught my drift.  Wish we went to Church, but that first 30 minutes was still very memorable.  Also snapped some pics of the wife and kids greeting me when I got home, I love that!





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