Funky Swell

Heard from a friend at work that Uppers had 200 people yesterday morning.  Ha ha, he said at least 20 people out at dark and the waves weren't that good.  That's what happens when surfline calls 4-6 ft and good conditions, people flock.  Richard knew it would be like that today so we all met at Strands to surf that awesome left again, we call ramps.  Matt came too, he did this off the top right in front of us that literally looked like Owen Wright.  Wish I had a camera.  The waves were a little warped and not that lined up, and the tide was pretty low so "the rock" that boils up was frightening; but a few good ones made it through.  It was just the 3 of us until about 7:15, and I surfed my new 5'9 neckbeard for the first time.  Man it is fast but I suck at going left (and right too) and couldn't get my feet right.  Hopefully tomorrow we'll catch some rights.