Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Foggy, glassy, and Fun

Woke up at 5 to check the buoys, 1.2@18 sounded reasonable, my guess was inconsistent waste high. Richard was out today with a cold but Matt was already at Trestles. I parked up top and the crowd was in between, pretty light considering the forecast but potential to go from 3 to 30 again. So I took the funboard and went to Church. Paddled out at 6 and it was still really dark, and 5 of us all paddled out at the same time but no one else came out for about an hour. The waves were better than I expected, pretty consistent and little above waist high, super glassy and pretty lined up. I saw Brandon out on his 5'10 Sweet Potato and he let me ride it on about 5 waves. I loved it, it was fast and fluid and very turnable... fit my style of surfing better than the fishcuit, but I still suck at surfing a quad fin. It is my back up choice if I can't get a Tuflite Biscuit. Took a few pics but didn't wait around for a set, there were a few chest to head highs out there.






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