Tuesday, September 4, 2012
Clean, glassy, fun and got the band back together
Richard, Matt, and I met up top at 5:40. Tons of cars already and we were bumming on the crowd so we went to Church (again!), and scored today. Water was glassy, clear, and comfortable (about 65). And the waves were fun, big sets still walled up but a lot of the chest high waves had some nice long shoulders, the fish was perfect today and i am really liking this wave. Its a little soft but you can get good speed on it by S-turning through the flatter sections. Matt went left a bunch and was clearly really happy to be back in the water, and he was shredding. Crowd was pretty light, maybe 8-10 guys out there. Forgot the camera so no pics today, but it was a beautiful morning and felt like fall.
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