Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

I was a buoy today

Usually I catch a lot of waves, more than most people out there.  I'm pretty good at finding the best spots to be in and work around the crowd.  Today at Uppers there just weren't enough waves and the tide was too high, that doubled with a thick crowd and I ended up sitting around a lot, just waiting.  The waves I did catch were solid, lined up chest high North swell waves, probably only caught about 5-6 good waves and I got to try the neckbeard going right.  Still a little funky but getting used to it, and it is really fast.  Matt caught the most waves, he was just sitting in the right spot and was picking off lefts.  Still was fun but not all time like we hoped, maybe ramps will be firing tomorrow on the combo swell.





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