Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Sunday, December 2, 2012

Church, Hawk Drop, Doheny Trifecta

I'm so tired.  Billy was up at 3 screaming, i think his top teeth are popping out and its hurts pretty bad. Finally gave him some tylenol at 4:00 and he went back down. Then i got up at 5:15 to hit Church.  The waves were better, the crowd was smaller, but I didn't have as much fun.  I didn't recognize anyone and the weather was cloudy and less inviting.  But, I was still stoked and did a ton of cheater 5's on the funboard.  Got home and played with the kids until 10:30, then they went to Temecula for cousin Jordan's 10th birthday party.  Lina gave me a pass so I went riding with Ryan and Colin, and we hit Hawk Drop and Car Wreck.  Dirt was money today, just enough rain to make it super tacky but not too muddy. Got home and slept for 20 minutes then packed up the paddleboard and hit doheny.  I don't need much size to surf that tank out there, waves were 1-2 but the 12'1 flies on a 1 ft wave.  I did a lot better today, although I still sucked, but was able to stand up paddle into every wave i caught.  Of all the things i did today, I keep thinking of SUP surfing the most.  This should be an easy getaway for when I have an hour free during nap time.  I'm loving it.






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