Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Saturday, December 1, 2012

3 guys at Church

So stoked to wake up this morning and see the trees were still, no south wind.  Buoys called 4.6@14 from 270, ideal west swell for Church and Uppers.  Parked up top and cars were already lining the street, but at least the clouds were breaking open already and it was looking to be a beautiful morning.  Pulled out the 5'9 neckbeard since the buoys were pumping, left the funboard behind (oops), and decided to hit Church.  Got there at 6 and only Brandon and Jim were out, way out.  Waves looked really soft, like the swell wasn't hitting right.  Perfect funboard conditions, dah! Made the best of it, sat inside for a while and had to struggle through the flat sections but caught some pretty fun waves today.  The car park at San O was closed because of the mud, so it was just the 3 of us for about an hour.  Even after that it was really quiet, maybe 5 or 6 of us.  While the surfing was challenging the company and conditions were pretty awesome, Jim even gave me some coffee after our session.  He lives in LN too, and sets up camp at Church complete with a firepit and coffee mug.  Brilliant.  Got home really happy and the kids were stoked too.  Great way to start the weekend.





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