Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Thursday, December 20, 2012

What were we thinking?

Richard sent a text at 5:15, O side buoys looked weak.  Billy-boy was up at 3 crying with a wet diaper that leaked so i didn't sleep well.  Didn't bother to check the Dana Point buoy and just went back to sleep since Richard wasn't into it; it was supposed to be 35 degrees again anyway.  Finally checked the DP buoy at 7 and it read 3.1@13 from 280, which means chest high waves at uppers and church.  I almost blew a fuse, I wanted to surf so bad and I blew it and it was probably empty.  F it, I decided to go to work late and go to Uppers.  I left the house at about 7:45 and parked up top close to 8.  Street parking was empty, 10-15 cars.  Sprinted my way down to uppers with my beard and lost fish, and saw chest high lines with 3 guys out.  WTF!  Beard it is!  As soon as I paddled out the bay started grinding out some long lines, and I was all by myself.  Consistent sets for 30-40 minutes, I didn't even sit on my board and my throat was getting cold from huffing and puffing (it was still about 45 degrees in the sun).  Finally the sets slowed down and about 17 people paddled out.  Caught several more fun small ones in the bay and stayed out until 9:40.  Stoked I made it out but would have rather had a 4 man surf sesh with Richard, John, and that Saffa guy thats always out there.  All good though, hopefully tomorrow will be funboard friday!  We're going Richard!

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