Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Friday, December 21, 2012

Freezing cold waist high lines

Today was cold.  The air was probably 45 degrees at best, but the offshores were howling.  Wore my hood and gloves again, but Richard forgot his hood so his head had to be freezing.  Surfed the funboard since it looked pretty small, 1.3@14 W swell is generally going to be small.  But it was just the two of us for a while, and I was catching some rad waves into the bay.  I got one chest high wave that raced for a solid 60-70 yards, superfast and long and I got a high speed cheater five in.  The air was way colder than the water, and it was still super cold even when the sun came out.  Richard said he was bored but i was stoked, i caught plenty of fun ones that made it worth it and the cold is kind of a neat experience anyway, plus the clear skies always provide an awesome sunrise.  Now, 11 days off for Christmas Break, so stoked!




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