Middles

Who knew that middles threw out such long waves.  If you get a good one its like Rincon, and you can ride it for 200 yards.  But there isn't a great inside section, at least on the fat high tide today, so you are forced to wait for the big sets.  It was 45 degrees today and the water was maybe 58, pretty comfortable really.  Richard and I surfed near the top of the point, not far from lowers, with only a couple other guys around.  Some solid sets made it through and we had a good old time, even with all the waiting.  I remember when I moved here from SLO i was so pissed about the traffic and the crowds.  The problem was I moved to Newport, that place sucks.  Down south is so much less populated and the waves are 10x better, you just have to work a little to get them.  There are just 3 months out of the year that suck crowd wise, but even those aren't so bad now that I found Church.  So another spot to surf which is epic on its day, right next to all my other favorite spots.  Stoked!