Who knew that Doheny was capable of providing so much fun. Kids went to nap again at around 11:15 AM so I split for a quick paddle surf. Buoys were 1.2@13 so I expected nothing more than 6 inch waves. Got there, no one was out. Tide was super low, and a family just arrived with there soft tops. I made my way to the south jetty to surf the 9 inch waves that I was seeing, which were still awesome on the 12'1 Laird. Within 20 minutes, these sets started coming through, consistently. 2-3 foot waves were making there way in and only 3 of us were on it. I must have caught 25 waves, I figured out how to turn really fast and late drop into these perfect little rights. I only fell in twice and feel confident that i have figured this thing out. Brought the go pro but set it up too high, oh well. Man I am loving these mid day surfs in my short sleeve full suit in December. As a kid I had to drive 45-60 minutes just to surf freezing cold crappy waves in Pacifica, now I can SUP surf the perfect spot that is 10 minutes from home while my kids are napping. Life is soo good.
No comments:
Post a Comment