Rise and Shine

Rise and Shine

Wednesday, December 19, 2012

Coldest morning surf ever

Wake up text from Richard at 5:39 AM was the pic of his car's thermometer.  I was ready though, i put on my suit at my house, put on some gloves and my hood, and made it to Salt Creek in 8 minutes.  Met Richard and Matt in the water, swell was JUMBLED.  5.6@7 seconds, yet still 75% of the waves closed out.  I hate Creek, that place is never good and always crowded.  The water was easily 60, and felt warm compared to the 35 degree off shore winds.  My head was cold through the hood.  Waves were really mixed up, but I did catch a pretty fun one that went for about 30 yards.  It was doubled up really close to the wave in front of it, but ended up holding a fast, open shoulder.  Otherwise, all the other waves i caught were crap, yet somehow I was still really happy.  Just good to surf be in the water with my buddies again.  Maybe tomorrow will clean up enough for Uppers.  Will be super cold again.

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